San Mun Tsai walk

What a glorious day. At last, a clear blue sky, and cooler weather. I set off for a walk in the mid morning and arrived home just before dark - with my friend Sophia who lives in the flat above me at the college. The day was one of discovery in the To Lo Harbour area. First a walk to Tai Po Waterfront Park with its well cultivated gardens and playscapes for children. Then, up to the industrial village waterfront where a festival was in full flight - we ate corn grilled on the hotplate, and then set off for San Mun Tsai. After yum cha lunch, we walked through the old fishing village and headed on a long walk towards the undeveloped natural area of Ma Shi Chau - a protected area with beautiful beaches and bountiful beach glass. After a short ride back to the village in a local sampan, we headed home. Hong Kong at its brilliant best.

Pollution in Hong Kong

This is the South China Sea and the islands off Hong Kong Harbour. I wonder what this scene would look like if there were no pollution. Hong Kong is a very polluted city, and this means not only daily haze, but also high livels of airborne chemicals - mostly pushed south from the industrial engines of China. In six weeks, I have seen clear blue skies only twice. The toll on humans is severe - with lots of respiratory problems and eye infections. Many people claim that the pollution is less severe in the New Territories, but this is not true.

Dining in Hong Kong

Eating in Hong Kong is a real delicious adventure. You can eat century eggs at most restaurants - and though they look foul, they are actually very tasty. The eggs are cured for a period of time in clay, lime, ash, rice straw and salt. The yolk is a beautiful greenish colour, looking a bit like jade, while the white just becomes dark brown. The taste is described by some as cheeselike, by others as pickled. No matter, they are a good appetiser to start a dinner.

Fish is available everywhere, and cooked by various means. Many say the fish in Hong Kong is all from polluted waters, and they steer clear of consuming any. As for me, well, I don't seem to suffer from eating all manner of fish - freshwater, saltwater and shellfish all seem to agree with me. The best fish is served steamed on a bed of scallions, ginger and herbs. Sometimes the fish is cooked right at the table on a plate with a small burner beneath, and other times it comes already plated and ready to eat.

Forget about eating western food while in Hong Kong - just get right into local dining. Bakeries serve divine custard tarts freshly made at any time of day. Snack on a bowl of sweet soup made with soft silken tofu and some sugar syrup if you are hungry. Want a savoury snack - how about trying salt and pepper squid for a light bite?