All the tea in China - the best is at Celadon in Tai Po, Hong Kong

When I got to Hong Kong in August, I was keen to drink as many teas as possible.  I was dismayed to find that tea is served up in the most unpalatable manner in most regular cafes and shops - a strong black brew that is really undrinkable.  This led me on the search for good tea, and to the discovery of a wonderful small tea shop in Tai Po.  Celadon, the shop, is owned by two of the loveliest people - Patrick and Esther.  The shop sells beautiful celadon ceramics from China, and also superb teas from all over.  The ambience of the shop is slow and easy, with lots of time to drink tea, to chat and to discuss ideas.  The ceramics are elegant and traditional - platters, bowls, tea sets, beads and decorative items.  The teas are truly special.  I have drunk several teas there, and been delighted with the elegant flavors of the lapsang souchong (nothing like what we get in the West), the delicate tastes of the various green teas and the stunning surprise of the various fermented teas.  Both Patrick and Esther are very knowledgeable about tea and will share stories willingly.  

Central Western Queensland

Life in central western Queensland is a wonderful blend of cultures - roo shooters and dingo bounty hunters live alongside gentle graziers in a vast flatland.  At the moment, the area is bright green from recent flooding rains.  The rivers are overflowing, the lakes abundant with water, fish and folks.  Here, at Lake Dunn, the water is murky from the rains, but the place is "teeming" with visitors who live in small tin sheds on the lake's edge.  For a few dollars, you can rent a place from the local council and spend a lovely time at the "Stagger Inn", or at other places - such as "It must be five o'clock somewhere".  There is a lot of alcohol consumed in this region - beer, rum and vodka are the choice of the locals.  Strangely, there is a healing circle in this area - one of seven in the world - atop a plateau - modestly signed to show the other six sites in the world where spiritual healing places are located.

Australia Day 2008 in Muttaburra Queensland

On Australia Day, I went to Aramac Shire in the central of western Queensland.  I was invited by the Premier's Department to be the shire's Australia Day Ambassador and was treated to a real different Aussie experience.  I flew into Longreach and was driven through the flooded areas of the Thompson River to the tiny settlement of Aramac where I had dinner with the Council on Friday night.  

Bright and early on Australia Day, we travelled another 84 kilometres along the straightest road in the universe to the tiny town of Muttaburra where I gave the Australia Day speech and distributed awards to the local prize winners.

I met with Doug Langdon, the fellow who discovered the skeleton of the Muttaburrasaurus dinosaur in 1963.  The Queensland Museum sent its young paleontologist, Alan Bartholomei, to investigate the bones and to crate them up for the QM collection.  Doug and his wife Pearl are upstanding citizens of the Shire and still make a great contribution to civic events and community pride.

Wet Markets

Every Hong Kong community has several wet markets - a convenient place to buy fish, meat, vegetables and fruit.  In Tai Po, the wet market was moved indoors to a flash new building a few years ago.  It is a magnificent venue, with three floors, and lots of community activity.  The ground floor holds fish mongers and butchers.  There, you can buy the most astonishing range of shellfish, ocean wild fish, farmed fish and reptiles - some are alive; if you prefer meat, you can buy all manner of pork, beef, chicken and lamb - cut to your specifications.  Many people shop here daily to purchase the best buy and best beast for their dinner.

The fruit and veggie stalls are on the next floor - and all manner of items can be found - stalls full of ginger, arrays of tofu, bean sprouts and the usual cornucopia of fruits and greens.  Also, many specialities are available - pickled vegetables, spiced tofu, noodles.  You can also find organic veggies in this area.

On the top floor is the exciting dai pai dong- the noodle and dim sum stalls where you can order your meal and dine alongside the locals.  This could be considered the true centre of any community.  Everyone seems to be there - young and old.  Children do their school work under the watchful gaze of their grandparents.  Wheelchairs are rolled up to the table, and people stop by to chat with one another.  The small tables groan under the piles of cups,bowls, chopsticks and spoons held in little plastic baskets.  A large bowl of tea is placed on the table so you can wash your utensils while you wait for your order to arrive at your table. I really like the dim sum stalls there, and with a group of friends, we can polish off 7 or more steamer baskets of small dumplings and yummy parcels of food for a mere $50 HK (about $7 US) - not a bad dining experience.  Pots of tea arrive at the table, locals exchange words with us, and all is well in the world.  

"Gweilo" by Martin Booth

One of the best books I read while in Hong Kong was Gweilo by Martin Booth.  The book is a memoir of of his first period of residence in Hong Kong in the 1950s when he was a young boy.  Originally from the UK, he moved to Hong Kong with his parents while his father was posted with the Navy.  He grew up as a young white boy with golden hair (a gweilo) in a city that allowed him to explore its shops, restaurants, neighborhoods and landscape.  His explorations take us to a time and place very different to the Hong Kong of the 21st century.  Read this book to get a close up, warm hearted and honest look at Hong Kong through the eyes of a young boy.